Manic Manila and beach bound in Boracay

The travel day of all travel days

As we crawl into bed, shattered, in a small bed and breakfast in downtown Manila, it is easy to forget the day we had to leave Malaysia. Our taxi picked us up just before 9am in Melaka to take us to the rather hectic bus terminal. The 9.30am bus to Singapore took us over 3 and a half hours, negotiating both Malaysian customs, and then Singapore customs and immigration. Even though we were only transiting through. Getting off the bus in the city state of Singapore we then had to find a taxi to take us to Changi airport. Arriving in good time for our 4.30pm flight to Manila we had time to refuel, knowing that this would be our last meal of the day.

Arriving in Manila we once more negotiated customs, our third country today, and went off to collect our bags and use the Grab app to get a taxi. We had the foresight to book into a very simple bed and breakfast close to the airport, making it easier both that night, and for our flight out the next morning. The reception we got at Rain B&B could not have been friendlier, and after a refreshing drink, a cold towel, we were shown to our room. Where I promptly collapsed into bed number 88 of the trip and slept like the dead.

Bound for beautiful Boracay

The next day we were headed to the holiday island of Boracay, in the central Philippines. A simpler travel day and yet… If you have been to Manila you will know what the traffic is like. Then, there is the small fact that Manila airport has four terminals, none of which are connected. There is a reason that the Philippines does not always figure high on the itinerary of travellers passing through Southeast Asia. A collection of 7,640 islands, the Philippines is hard to get into, and even harder to move around.

Knowing of those 7,640 islands, we had grand plans of island hopping for a while but due to the logistical challenges of this we settled for a week of rest and relaxation on the island of Boracay. Boracay is rightly popular amongst Filipino travellers. A tiny island, fringed by beautiful palm trees, and sand so soft and white that you could almost be back on the famous Whitehaven Beach in Australia.

The week of relaxation was due to be our last stop before heading back home. But, midway through the week, sipping cold San Miguel whilst watching the best sunset of our lives, we looked at each other and just knew what each was thinking. We let it sit there. Between us. Unspoken, yet so powerful. In that moment we knew that the Philippines was not to be the end of this amazing odyssey.

The rehabilitation of Boracay

Boracay is not this beautiful by accident. Whilst naturally stunning, and blessed with beaches, the island suffered a fate common to other tourist hotspots in the region. Overdeveloped. Too many tourists. Not the correct infrastructure to deal with the volume of people. We saw, or rather smelt this, first hand on the Thai island of Phi Phi. Without the sewerage to deal with the vast numbers of visitors the streets literally stink of shit, emanating up from the open sewers.

Boracay may, or may not have been at this level, yet in 2018 the Philippine government closed the island down for 6 months. They even went to the extent of posting soldiers and police officers at the entry points on the pier to turn visitors away. The rehabilitation was considered a success and now the island is abuzz with tourists looking to laze away the day on the perfect “White Beach” and party long into the night.

I am afraid to say that the “influencers” are out in force too. It is probably the first time in my life I have seen grown women dressing up in mermaid outfits and lolling around on the beach. The photographers that are paid to follow them about throw out demands to “lift your tail higher”. Could I BE any more saddened at what the world is becoming?

White Beach of Boracay

Our 6 days there were spent in a state of bliss. Starting with the excellent breakfast provided by the hotel, followed by long walks along White Beach. The feel of the sand under our feet was unreal. So soft. As part of the rehabilitation of the island, sun loungers and parasols are no longer permitted and this does cause an issue as the sun gets higher in the sky. It is a bit of a scramble to find a spare palm tree to lay in the shade of.

As the sun goes down, Boracay comes to life. There is something for everyone. Many restaurants serving every cuisine under the sun. Cheap beach bars where I was having a rum and coke for $1.37 (74p). And enough karaoke bars to satisfy all the budding Filipino Gloria Gaynors. Days passed way too quick.

Makati in Manila

Before we knew it, our time on the island had come to an end. We now had another travel trek back to Manila. Getting picked up at 6.30am from Watercolors Hotel was just the start of it. What followed was a ride to the boat terminal in Boracay. A boat across to Catical, saying goodbye to the island of Boracay. A minibus to the airport, which took all of 4 minutes. A 40 minutes flight to Manila and finally a Grab taxi to Havitat Hotel. Phew.

Thankfully, on arrival at the hotel our room was ready and we were able to drop the bags and freshen up, before heading out for some lunch. We were staying in the Makati part of Manila, and were conveniently very close to the Power Plant mall, which had many dining options. It was also here, in the Starbucks Roastery, that I got to catch up with an old friend.

Friendship and the importance of connection

Whilst working with a client in Sydney back in 2019 I had the opportunity to travel to Manila for a week, delivering some training to the teams based in the Bonifacio Global Centre in Manila. Having met him previously in Sydney, being in Manila gave me more time to get to know Edwin, who has turned into a great friend. Meeting Edwin for a coffee and catching up on the last few years, and how the Filipinos have been navigating COVID was great. And a great reminder that connection to each other is so important. We can use all the technology we have available to us and yet nothing beats the human connection we feel when we are sat facing each other, chatting over a coffee.

With our Philippines adventure drawing to a close it was time to look ahead. Look forward to where the road will take us. Reluctant to head home as first planned, we scraped a little more money out of the travel jar and are now on our way to country number 25, and onto Indonesia. We are Bali bound.